From: Jon Shoop (shoop19@brick.net)
Date: Mon Mar 06 2006 - 19:59:03 PST
Multi volt LEDS. 8-28volt
I am doing an article on them now.
Jon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Arthur Bloom" <m35prod@optonline.net>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
> Wire them in series.
>
> apb
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex" <grossmanalex@qwest.net>
> To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 9:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
>
>
> | OK... I'm a little of a microgeek. How about something along this line
> per
> | bulb for the mil 24 volt headlights? Any simple 3 terminal device that
> will
> | handle the 6 amps or so? I hate buying 24volt headlights. :(
> | Alex
> |
> | -----Original Message-----
> | From: Military Vehicles Mailing List [mailto:mil-veh@mil-veh.org] On
> Behalf
> | Of Patrick Jankowiak
> | Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 11:21 PM
> | To: Military Vehicles Mailing List
> | Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
> |
> | One thing could be done, to use a small 24-to-12 switching power supply
> | (buck converter) for each lamp to be lit on the trailer. 24V/1A in,
> 12V/2A
> | out.. less any inefficiencies.
> |
> | truck socket sees proper currents, trailer lamps see proper voltages.
> | (unless you have a fat wallet, you should make your own switchers.)
> |
> | This could also be done cheeply with any solid state circuit that would
> | turn the power on and off maybe 100 times a second with a 50% duty
> cycle.
> | Would not need a full blown regulated switcher. (visions of a 555 timer
> and
> | a BDW94CFP (12A PNP Darlington in an isolated TO-220 case))
> |
> | but that's for geeks, making your own electronics.
> |
> | The easiest and cheapest thing by far (other than changing lamps) is to
> add
> | a second set of lamp fixtures with 24V lamps to include the proper
> | connector for your truck's trailer socket. Besides, due to the oddities
> of
> | various brake light wiring schemes among civvy vehicles, you may not
> want
> | to mix and match the wiring.
> |
> | PJ
> |
> | Arthur Bloom wrote:
> |
> | > ----- Original Message -----
> | > From: "Ryan Gill" <rmgill@mindspring.com>
> | > To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
> | > Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 2:46 PM
> | > Subject: Re: [MV] TRAILERS --
> | >
> | >
> | > At 9:58 AM -0700 3/3/06, SGM PANTANO wrote:
> | >
> | >>Hey...wake up.. There is no such thing as a 24 volt or a 12 volt
> trailer..
> | >>The light receptacles in the Military tail lights could care less what
> | bulb
> | >>is in there..
> | >
> | >
> | > But the wiring could. 24 volt wires could be
> | > sized smaller, try to run the same wattage bulb
> | > at 12 volts and you could fry your wires. Check
> | > the wire harness first!
> | >
> | >
> | >
> | > Twelve gauge copper wire has an ampacity of 41 in open air (single
> | insulated
> | > conductor) and an ampacity of 23 in a harness. For 14 gauge wire, the
> | > ratings are 32 amps and 17 amps, respectively. It would take a lot of
> | lamps
> | > to reach those limits. In addition, there are fuses which are designed
> to
> | > fry before the wires do.
> | >
> | > Arthur P. Bloom
> | >
> | >
> | > ===Mil-Veh is a member-supported mailing list===
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> | > To reach a human, contact <ackyle@gmail.com>
> | > Visit the searchable archives at http://www.mil-veh.org/archives/
> | >
> |
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> |
> |
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> |
> |
> | --
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> |
> |
>
>
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>
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