I agree about less sturdy! I know all other parts will swap out
civilian stock, but I have been told the water pumps are different.
Gale Wrote
>Should bolt right in. Why do you want to convert to 12 volt? It is a lot
>of hassle for no gain and a loss in starting ease in cold weather. All
>the 24 volt parts are readily available from many sources. You also
>decrease the value of the vehicle by making the conversion. If you want
>to run 12 volt accessories, and I have 12 volt radios etc in most of my
>24 volt rigs, just run a hot wire from the positive terminal of the
>battery whose negative terminal is grounded.
SeanB Wrote:
>The engine used in the military models and the civilian models is
>identical. Unbolt the old military and the civilian should slip right
>in. But I'm kind of partial to using the 24 volt stuff.
The 12v conversion is a maybe. I'm building this primarily as a work
(play) truck, to maybe be driven 1000-1500 miles per year. It just seems
simpler for jumpstarts and on-road repairs if it was at least 12v with
more standard parts.
Also, I will pull various trailers, all of which are now 12v. Of course,
I could add in a couple of relays, to provide switched 12v to the trailer
harness. I've already got 2 12v batts to use, now used to start my 3.5kw
generator, and the M715 has been modified to hold 2 batteries underhood,
instead of in the cab.
Harry Wrote:
>I beleive you can drop it right in and bolt it together. have fun,Harry.
Oh, I will have fun :-)
Sorry, I am not doing a true military restoration this time, but will
probably keep it painted in the USFS colors it is in now (or the parts
truck, which is VFD red. I have toyed with a 350 swap, but want to keep
it somewhat original, and I won't need to tow far (<30miles) or at
highway speeds.
One thing I have thought about. I have a known good civilian block, and
an unknown military block. Might just swap in all the 24v/milspec items
on the civilian block. Good engine, and I retain military stock.
Thanks for all your input!!
DP...