I have owned quite a few Jeeps, at least 10 have been MN GPWs (still have
3), and looked at quite a few more. I always gravitate towards the
tattered originals, rusted or not, for what they can tell me. A few years
ago I placed an ad in MV magazine for just such "survivor" Jeeps. I got
amazing (some TRULY amazing) response, those I didn't buy, I documented and
nothing I saw there conflicts with what I've said above.
As for Auke's GPW, I'd say it is virtually, certainly original. I find it
unlikely that farmers are out in their fields restamping engine blocks to
get an extra couple of dollars for a rusty hulk. Even older restorations
or recent ones where folks aren't making a big issue of the numbers are
likely not messed with. Exactly correct stamps (numerals and characters),
to my knowledge, are not readily available. I have seen people with rusty
frames cut the number from the rail and weld it into a solid frame.
Probably not exactly legal but it is, actually, still the original number,
not a restamp. In my opinion, doing whatever would be required to do an
absolutely,undetectable job of restamping a GPW engine # , given the
present difference in market value between MN and NMN, would make as much
sense as counterfeiting nickels. Besides, there's a way to tell no matter
how well it's done.
I am interested to hear others thoughts on this. Surely, some GPW true
believer, Bill?, can tell us the assembly line procedure. Also, I'm
curious who actually did the dash plaque was it the Army rep or the
manufacturer? I ask because I don't know anything about military
procedures or military vehicles, in general, as my only interest is Jeeps
(quite a few happen to be MVs).
Regards, JP
--------> From: DOConnor@zoomit.sikorsky.com
> To: auke.dijkstra@pi.net
> Cc: mil-veh@skylee.com
> Subject: Re: [MV] matching numbers
> Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 5:54 PM
>
> Auke,
> Hey, you never know. My comments were meant only as guidelines based on
> personal experience and knowledge and worth exactly nothing or something;
you
> decide. The assembly line practice of piling up parts or assemblies and
then
> the workers putting the next available one on the vehicle does not lend
> itself to matching numbers but it does/did happen. The rule of thumb we
give
> to newcomers to the hobby is:"If you're happy with how you finish the
truck
> then the heck with anyone who doesn't like it". You only have to please
> yourself and if you're satisfied it's matching then it is. We hope to get
a
> look at an unmolested chaplin's jeep soon and increase our understanding.
The
> current owner lived across from the church and was in WW2 with the
pastor. It
> was never damaged and the pastor brought it home, trailer and all. When
he
> died his kids gave it to our friend who drove it across the street and
into
> the barn it's in today. Sitting so long hurt the engine and he has it out
for
> repair but otherwise it has never been apart. Remember, the later the
> delivery date the less "F" stuff it should have on it and a common
mistake we
> see in shows here is over-restoration of late Ford's which costs the
> indignant owner points off. Funny, the following year it has less F's!
Maybe
> the more experienced GPW guys on the list can be of help with what should
or
> shouldn't be "F" marked on a 6-30-44.
> As a side note if you don't mind: How did you ship the jeep? Dad wants
to
> be prepared for Beltring this summer. Parts he can UPS home but nothing
that
> big. I don't know where we'd put another truck right now anyway. Any
thoughts
> appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Dennis O'Connor
> Naugatuck, CT, USA
>
>
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