Combining the best parts of the two Jeeps to make the best possible
vehicle, certainly, makes sense but it has its limitations. My feeling is
your best bet is to use the complete original tag set that you have the
original engine for, even if it requires finding a composite body. Use the
rest of the driveline as well since all that stuff has casting numbers and
date codes on them. It's not as obvious, but using the front axle from one
Jeep and the rear from another is as detectable as using the frame tag from
one and the dash plaque from another. You seem to be leaning toward the
new frame. It seems unlikely that after 23 years that frame could be the
basis of as much effort and money as you're describing. In that time much
more moisture has come up through the ground than ever fell from the sky.
You often see Jeeps which were never rained on in barns with dirt floors.
>From above they look like a real find, underneath they look like peat moss.
But I haven't seen it and you have. I'd look it over very carefully,
looking for rust between double sections pushing the 2 pieces apart.
Even if you did end up using the identity of the new one I don't see why
you'd have to leave the dash plaque blank. You'd know the VIN from the
frame tag and you could figure out a delivery date from other Jeeps. If
you don't get it exact you can keep reasearching until you do and then make
another new one. The problem is finding the exact right dash plaque.
Forget about the glutton stuff, have the body acid dipped and fix the Jeep.
It's your duty.
Hope this helps. Post every number you can find on both Jeeps, describe
the new body and we'll figure it out completely. Oh yeah, one more thing,
you said, "Whenever it rained it was on a hill". Where was it the rest of
the time?
Regards,
JP
----------
> From: Brian & Robin Mead <bmead@atl.mindspring.com>
> To: mil-veh@skylee.com
> Subject: Re: [MV] Roll Call
> Date: Tuesday, May 13, 1997 8:49 PM
>
> >> We also realize that many components will have been changed but with
> >a large enough sampling we expect to see clear patterns emerge from the
> >database whereby we can tell which components ...
>
> Well, I seem to be in luck. I shall present a test case :-)
> I have just bought another Willys MB. (my second) I bought it from my
> neighbor who has let it sit in his field for about the last 23 years.
> Luckily though, whenever it rained it was on a hill and drained pretty
well
> (surface rust but nothing too deep). My problem is that the dash plates
> have been removed, the engine is a replacement, and being new to this I
> don't know where the frame # is located. He didn't even have the last
tag
> receipt so I can't track the age that way.
>
> I plan to combine this vehicle with my other Willys MB which still has a
> correct engine and the dash plates, but it's body panels are all rusted
past
> any attempt of rescue. Is the "new" vehicle created by the combination
now
> the one which donated the frame, the one I have info on, or is it
neither?
> If I use the Willys MB without dash plates for the frame how can I fill
out
> the dash plates for it? I don't want to commit fraud (I also never
intend
> to sell my Willys so false information is not an issue) but I would hate
to
> have to leave the dash plates blank.
>
> In an earlier post GIjeeps@aol.com said:
> >A jeep that can be restored to a good likeness
> >of original configuration at a cost less than or equal the fair market
value.
> >I use this measurement because it seems likely that any jeep which has
> >deteriorated beyond this point will eventually be scrapped by some fool
or
> >parted out by some crafty fellow such as myself. (or restored by some
glutton
> >for punishment who doesn't know any better.)
> If I can trade the engine, transmission, & possibly the axles to make a
> complete (still surface rusty & missing stuff like the blackout light
etc.)
> Willys, am I a greater glutton for punishment than the rest of the people
> trying to restore their first Willys or just an equal glutton? Please be
> truthful! By the way, I paid $150 for the Willys with the good body &
$450
> for the Willys that runs but has rusted body panels so I don't have a
great
> amount invested yet.
>
> Also, being that I have a couple of decades of rust removal to deal with,
> has anyone dealt with Bill Hirsch Chemicals for restoration supplies. I
> have their catalog and it all seems good but being new to this I want to
be
> sure. Their web page is www.hirschauto.com If y'all (sorry, I'm from
> Georgia) know of better sources for refinishing supplies please tell me.
>
> Thanks for all the assistance,
>
> Brian Mead
> Griffin, GA.
> Willys MB '44
> Willys MB '??
>
>
>
>
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