> In a message dated 97-07-11 19:43:39 EDT, rick@prospectsw.com (Rick) writes:
>
> << I am putting together a 1943 GPW. I have all of the parts to do so,
> except for the tub. (It came with a MB body on it).
> I want to look into an after market body >>
A number of years ago, I went completely through two 1941 models...one Ford and one
Willys...and I found that the rust and other damage looked more far more difficult to
repair than it really was. For one thing, most of the body components in a Jeep consist of
flat planes, with very few simple curves and even fewer compound curves. This makes it
much easier to do a good job replacing sheet metal without being skilled on an English
wheel or metal stretcher/shrinker. A jeep is a great first restoration project. Nearly all
of the new metal will consist of flat pieces with straight bends that can be done on a
bending brake. The secret is to pick up the correct tools and tackle the simpler repairs
first (after practicing on some scrap metal).
Here's the rub: For the price of an aftermarket body of perhaps questionable accuracy (not
to mention the loss of authenticity), you could buy a very nice set of quality tools that
would last through this and many future projects.
You'll want things like:
Flanging tool(s) (air or manual) for making flush overlapping joints that will be
spotwelded.
Air-powered nibbler, manual nibbler.
Sheet metal edge clamps, cleco clamps and pliers.
A decent MIG welder would make life easier, especially with a stitch weld timer/adapter
and some kind of spot welding adapter.
A small high-speed grinder.
A larger angle grinder.
A basic set of general-purpose body tools (hammers, dollies, body files, sander, etc.).
You might want to consider tools for working with lead (instead of polyester).
A good strong adjustable bending brake (look for a good used one and stay away from the
39.95 specials that don't allow bends of varying radii). Actually there are ways of
cheating with a cheap bending brake, such as sandwiching layers of dead-soft aluminum
around what you are bending, but a good brake is a joy to work with and a real time-saver.
If you can't find a good one, just mark your bends and have them done at a sheet metal
shop.
Good electric drill and quality bits.
A set of carbide spot weld removing bits.
Possibly an air-powered metal saw. A reciprocating unit is more versatile than the disc
type (in my opinion).
A good assortment of correct fasteners (research this carefully, since it is often
overlooked in many 'restorations').
Naturally, there are other tools that may be useful as well, but buy them as you discover
you need them so you don't end up with a bunch of stuff you'll never use.
Here are a couple of tips to make the job easier and faster:
Have the body dip stripped if that service is available in your area, or blasted with a
medium that does not damage the metal. I've seen some done with plastic beads that turned
out nicely. Walnut shell may work also. Glass beads may be OK. Try to avoid more abrasive
media. After stripping the body, it will look a LOT cleaner and less intimidating. Be sure
to use a good self-etching primer, such as a two-part zinc phosphate etch primer, on the
bare metal immediately after it's been stripped and cleaned. If you can have it dipped in
a zinc chromate or zinc phosphate wash primer, all the better. This is not usually a body
shop type of task. Shops that do plating and galvanizing are good bets.
Get a complete parts manual, write everything down and tag all parts. Store them
methodically. This will save you a major headache.
I could go on and on...I'd better shut up for now.
However, pardon me while I wax philosophical for a moment...
I guess the way I look at it, the joy of restoring (or modifying) a vehicle is in the
restoration or modification process itself...the skills that you gain in that process and
the satisfaction of looking at your own handiwork.
Although I haven't done any major projects for a number of years, I've restored all (or
parts) of over 25 automobiles in the past (I'm just starting an M37B1 project now) and I
must admit that I have gotten a little tired of dealing with things like rust and dents.
It's more fun fabricating a duplicate part from scratch or designing something entirely
new, but whatever you decide to do, it's OK. After all, it's your project and you have to
be happy with it...not me or anyone else.
The main thing is to have fun. Good luck.
Regards,
Alan Bowes
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