I just changed 15 tyres on split rims these last couple of weeks.
It's really not that dangerous if things are done right. Here is the method
I use.
Note that the wheels I have done did not have metal beed locks (which are
very
hard to come by anyway). They have rubber tube protectors between the tube
and the rim - original Firestone manufacture.
1) Lay the wheel flat on the ground with the valve and rim nuts upwards.
2) Unscrew the valve insert, and let the air out until no more noise is
heard from the air passing through the valve hole.
3) Screw the valve insert back in.
4) Undo all the rim bolts.
5) Press a tyre iron between the tyre and the wheel rim and hammer it in
carefully until it hits the inner surface of the rim. Heave it upwards.
6) Repeat 5) at 90 degree intervals around the rim. The tyre will loosen on
that side.
7) Take off the outer part of the split rim. If the rims are a bit rusty
this will need some work.
8) Turn the wheel over and repeat 5) and 6) until the tyre loosens on that
side.
9) You can now take out the inner(larger) part of the rim, leaving the tube
and the tube protector still inside the tyre. Be carefull not
to damage the tube
valve. Leave the valve dust caps screwed on.
10) Pull out the tyre protector starting at the side opposite the valve.
11) Pull out the tube starting at the side opposite the valve. Do this
until half the tube is out.
12) Unscrew the valve dust cap and depress the valve insert. Due to the
lessening of the available volume on the part of the tube still
inside the tyre, the
pressure will rise. Pressing the valve insert allows you to
draw more air out of
the tube, making it easier to remove, and to reinstall in new
tyres.
If you're replacing the tyre, then press the tube into the new tyre -
keeping the valve upwards and the dust cap screwed on. Then insert the tube
protector,
putting the valve through the hole in the protector first. The tube
protector can be a
bit tricky to re-insert. The trick is to make sure the bottom edge is in
the tyre first, then work at the top edge. Once its in,check that the fit
is loose and doesn't bulge out into the hole where the rim is to be. Drop
the tyre/tube/protector over the inside(largest)
part of the rim, making sure that the valve falls into the groove in the
rim designed for
it. Make sure the valve stem is not rubbing against the edge of the groove.
Place the
outer (smaller) part of the rim into position - and bolt in place.
While tightening the nuts holding the two halves of the rim together,
make sure that the rim does not rotate so that the edge of the groove where
the valve is
seated cuts into the valve stem. Also tighten the nuts in two stages - Not
completely
tight - then as tight as you can get them.
The only tools you should need for this operation is a tyre iron, a socket
wrench with a 12" torque bar, and a hammer.
Regards
Gerry Davison
Denmark
----------
> Fra: David C. Decker <campdeck@infomagic.com>
> Til: mail <mil-veh@skylee.com>
> Emne: [MV] Split Rim DANGERS
> Dato: 29. september 1997 20:40
>
> I would like to open a dialogue to address the inherent danger of
> changing tires and tubes on split rim wheels. I have seen people do it
> wrong and get hurt. Since we have a number of members who have never
> worked on these types of wheels before, would the experienced members
> please share their SAFE methods?
>
> Dave Decker
> Flagstaff, AZ.,USA
> M715
> M274
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