On changing the tube on my M715 split rim wheels, I have done the following:
IF YOU HAVE A 'CAGE' AVAILABLE - USE IT. The method described below are one's that have
worked for me in the field.
1) Make sure the rim and the ring are real clean and free of rust and any
'snags' which the ring might catch on. Put some kind of lube to allow the tire, wheel
and ring to slide together and not get hung up during inflation.
2) After everything is on loosely and with out any air pressure in the tube, wrap a
'serious' steel chain around the tire, ring and wheel so that the ring is prevented from
flying and doing damage if it does come apart.
3) Use a 'clip-on' type air inflator, which can be put on the valve stem and left there
till the tire/tube is inflated to correct PSI.
4) Inflate the tire to about 10PSI and make sure the ring is seated. Check the gap at
the end of the split ring to see if it is the same as a fully inflated tire. If this gap
is larger, it means the ring is not seated properly and WILL COME OFF IF INFLATION
CONTINUES. I tap the ring to seat it with a lead mallet anyway. If things don't look
right at this stage, deflate the tire, remove the ring and see why it won't seat.
Sometimes a pebble, a bit of rubber, a sliver of metal or something gets in the groove.
5) Do a final check on the whole setup including the ring on the wheel, the safety
chains and the air inflator. Turn the wheel so that the ring is against the ground and
put the whole setup under the truck or somewhere that insures that if it blows, no one
is in the path of flying parts.
9) With a valve and PSI gauge at the supply end of the air pressure hose, fill the tire
to the correct PSI. Take a break and stay away from the tire. Let it sit for awhile. If
it is going to let loose, it might happen in the first 30 minutes after inflation.
10) Visually check the ring and wheel for correct seating, unhook the air inflator, take
the chains off and put the tire on the truck. Don't bounce the tire, there still is a
chance of the whole thing coming apart.
11) After installing the repaired tire/wheel on the vehicle, stand clear when lowering
the truck, as this in another time when the ring could come off the wheel. KEEP PEOPLE
AWAY!!
12) Check the wheel after driving the truck for a few miles. DON'T EVER HIT THE RING
WITHOUT THE SAFETY CHAINS TO HOLD THE RING IF IT LET'S GO!
13) Always use a clip-on type tire inflater and stand clear when either inflating or
deflating the pressure.
In 25+ years of working on these types of wheels, I have never had one let loose.
This does not mean that it might not happen next time I change one. These type of wheels
are comparativily easy to fix in the field as long as you have the right tools and are
very carefull. As many of the other list members have stated, it is also easy to get
killed if you make a mistake. My suggestion to anyone who has not had the proper
training is to take the tire/wheel to a truck tire shop and ask to see the right way to
do it. Buy the right tools.My way works for me, it may have flaws; I welcome any
comments and suggestions.
I learned to work on these wheels in the Army, many of the list readers have not had
that training which is the reason I put this subject up for discussion.
Please, let's hear more from you guys about your SAFE way of changing split-rim wheels.
Thanks to everyone who has contributed already, there are way too many cases of people
getting hurt out there, let's try not to have any more.
Dave Decker
Flagstaff, AZ.,USA
M715
274
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