Best you read my previous posting regarding jelling (clogging).
> When the oil is
>changed, the powder will be lost, and all that will remain is the harmful
>effects of increased engine wear.
My post was not one of belief like yours my friend, mine was one of
fact. Your comment about when the oil is removed is as incorrect as
that about the buffer/barrier effect of Polyetraflouoroethylene (PTFE),
requiring 3000 degrees. One of my Dingo's had serious problems with
leaking seals in the bevel boxes, which I was unable to cure before
heading off on my annual drive accross Europe to the Ardennes and
Luxembourg (about 700 miles round trip). The oil in the bevel boxes had
already gone after the first 100 miles or so each day. I had no
problems with the vehicle either then or over the many thousands of
miles afterwards.
>
> The best thing to use, in any engine, is a good quality mineral oil
>for break-in,
>followed by a steady diet of a synthetic oil, such as mobile
>1.
>
> Steve
possibly, but the best thing to use by experience, in an armoured car's
hubs, transmission etc, such as the Ferret is with the addition of
P.T.F.E ...which is what this thread is about. We also have a member of
the group, who by mistake proved it was not possible to run in (break
in), a GMC 270 engine when P.T.F.E had been added after re-assembly with
a re-bore.
regards
Colin Brookes
Invicta Military Vehicle Preservation Society (IMPS)
colb@xtra.co.nz
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