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Mike in VA
Nice email. Now I just need to find someone who will share the same type of
information about my M-35!
Jeff in CO
Amikesomm@aol.com wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> CONGRATULATIONS!! My first M37 was free, too, and if I had had decent
> advice I'd have saved myself a lot of early problems.
> I got more opinions than carter has liver pills on the M37. First of all,
> split rims and combat rims are two different things. Combat rims are just
> like wwii jeep combat rims. Split rims are later and much more common. OK,
> now the questions -
> How familiar are you with M37?
> Got the manuals yet? Either CD or paper. I like paper for all the obvious
> reasons, but CDs are cheaper.
> Weak points are oil system in engine and rear axles. On hot days there is
> sometimes a fuel percolation problem and vapor lock. Everything else is
> easy.
> Fasteners bolts wheelbearing nuts etc are all huge, will require bigger
> tools. Recommend you buy wheelbearing wrench from MV mag, makes it SOO much
> easier. I did, and also bought a 3/4 drive set from Harbor freight.
> Save everything you bought. Don't sell a thing yet. Extra motor and trans
> means you can have a spare powerpack ready for when you need it. Especially
> if you go through it ahead of time. I've got one in the corner on an engine
> stand under a dustcover just waiting for the need. I turn it over
> periodically by hand to keep it freed up, and spray a mist of oil down the
> plugholes.
> Three years sitting outside? pull off the seats and go through the nooks
> and crannies underneath, that's where they always rust out. Plus the bottoms
> of the underbed tool boxes.
> I would bleed the brakes with 100 alcohol and let it sit a bit, too.
> I'd drain the oil carefully into a clean container, and evaluate sludge
> content, including reaching into the pan and scooping out all that you can.
> If there is much sludge in the pan, I'd drop it, clean it completely, remove
> and clean the oil pickup, etc. I had an oil pickup stop up from sludge and
> spun a bearing. VERY sad day.....
> Pull the oil pressure relief plug under the distributor, clean it and make
> sure the little piston works well in the bore. take the filter housing off
> and clean and desludge it too.
> Run a line from the fender mounted gascan to the fuel pump for the initial
> start. Blow out the gas lines before using. I would pull fuel sender and
> carefully inspect tank, and probably drop it for a thorough cleaning first.
> The M37 fuel system is straightforward and simple, and I've fixed several of
> them without replacing parts, just making new gaskets and cleaning cleaning
> cleaning. That's a long story for another email.
> Go over electrical system with ohmmeter, especially if you put power to it
> and breakers start clicking under the dash (there are three or four) . The
> M series electrical system is very very easy to fix and maintain, by the way.
> I mentioned the axles? The rear ones are massive, but break when abused.
> It's easy to replace them. THey run about $100 a side now, I always have
> several on hand. Most of the trucks I've gotten had one broken. Important
> part is to get all the broken pieces out.
> Original drivers seats are getting harder to find. Many people replace the
> springs with foam. Your call there. Fording system and engine primer
> usually gone. If so, it's ok, they don't matter except for judging points
> and are easy to find. If they are there, make sure primer is disconnected or
> doesnt' leak. They usually do. Checkthat the crankcase vent valves are open
> (they are usually safety wired open) and the heat riser valve is unstuck and
> pointed to "summer". For this, you'll need to check the manual. Don't
> force that heat riser if it's stuck, do the liquid wrench and patience thing,
> or you'll be pulling the manifolds off. Having it completely open really
> matters out there on hot CA days. take off the heat shield that covers the
> fuel pump (one small nut and one ex manifold nut with liquid wrench) clean
> it, and paint the top side bright silver with a white primer coat. cool fuel
> pumps make all the difference, too.
> So, how's that, or do you want more??
> Mike in VA
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Apr 04 2000 - 21:57:21 PDT