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----- Original Message -----
From: <LEEnCALIF@aol.com>
To: "Military Vehicles List" <mil-veh@uller.skylee.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 4:28 PM
Subject: [MV] Ferret fluids, etc.
Hi Jack and Eminent Listpersons,
> FYI: Locally "Shell Tellus" is sold under the brand name Golden Gate and
I
> can get ISO 22, but not the ISO 15. Very cheap too, compared to
motorcycle
> fork oil. I have to leave my own container/can and the dealer will have
it
> filled by the truck when it comes around, about once a week. I would be
> happy to obtain some and send it out to those in need in the US. Cost,
plus
> shipping.
>
I suspect for any given volume, fork oil makes a bigger pocket hole than
Shell Aero Fluid #1.
ISO 22 is very close, consider the kinematic velocity in mm˛/s at 40C it is
22 hence the designation, whilst ISO 15 is of course 15, at 100C ISO 15
becomes typically 3.24 and the ISO 22 just 4.33.
Your torque converter/fluid flywheel/coupler just thinks the oil is a tad
cooler than it actually is.
> Curious about one more thing on the coupler... I was told the fluid would
be
> red, however when I checked my coupler it appears clear. Is it sometimes
> red???
>
It needs to be confirmed but I believe the direct equivalent aero hydraulic
oil is red so that leaks are very obvious, I have certainly stripped some
direct ex-mil Stalwarts that have had red "OM 13" in them. My sealed OD and
stencilled cans present with a very, very pale yellow fluid, leaks of this
are only apparent because of the gloss it makes.
> I have a source for mil spec H537 fluid that sells for $3.00-$3.98 a
gallon
> depending on the quantify. Not sure what H537 converts too, but it is the
> red hyd. fluid. If you are in need, let me know and I can arrange
shipment
> of this too.
>
Someone needs to convert this into a known spec, you may have hit the
jackpot; or it could be plain old ATF.
> The oil in the transfer box and the gear change box seem a little dirty,
> brownish, streaked in darker brown/black, should this be a sign to drain
and
> replace? It's been 1 year since I've owned it with about 100 miles on it.
> Wondering how often such non-engine oils ought to be replaced given the
> mileage?
>
Oil is always cheaper than metal.
The transfer is likely a tad condensation contaminated and a fresh glug of
GL5 spec 90EP would be wise and cheap.
The pre-selector box needs detergent SAE 30 like the engine and gets
contaminated with brake band material in time, usually having to lay in
fairly large stocks of MIL 2104 SAE 30 leaves plenty over to give the box
some fresh stuff.
> I recall the thread on engine oils aging and oxidation, but would this be
> true of gear oils (30 wt engine oil) that are not exposed to the same
> temperatures as engine oils? Also is it advisable to use a flush
(cleaner)
> when changing these specific oils?
>
All these systems are not sealed and will "pant" with change in temp and
thereby deposit a surprising amount of condensed water, slightly warmer and
more humid days following a cold snap will have the inside of the vehicle
and its enclosed mechanicals fairly dripping with condensation owing to
their thermal mass.
I have stripped out many assemblies from standing scrap vehicles which were
correctly filled with oil only to find many parts above the level quite
rusty.
You shouldn't need to actually flush the boxes unless its a very dire case
of nasty stuff in there, for the transfer I'd fill it with cheap red diesel
and _idle_ it for a minute or so to slosh it about then really drain, even
jacking the vehicle appropriately to remove the last dregs and leave it for
some time to really clear. Then re-fill, do some 10 miles or so and change
it again.
The pre-selector gearbox with its brake bands is another matter altogether,
diesel oil is indeed a very light oil and the previous technique might be
applicable but I'd consult the Ferret aficionados here first I think.
Richard
Southampton - England
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Jun 01 2000 - 22:37:12 PDT