From: Steve & Jeannie Keith (cckw@comcast.net)
Date: Fri Jul 23 2004 - 11:33:26 PDT
Add an ignition resistor (from a 1957 Chevy truck) in series with the coil
Change to 12v neg ground
Add mid 70's GM alternator 35 amps (a larger promotes belt slipage)
Add wire from switched ignition thru 47 ohm 1 watt resistor to the two
plugin
alternator terminals
Move the ARM wire on the regulator to the BAT terminal
Connect the ARM wire that was on the gen to the output of the alternator
Add a voltage regulator (3 wire not a resistor) frm JC Whitnet for gas
gauge.
Change light bulbs
If you have a starter solenoid, change to 12 version
Add mechanical brake light switch from 57 Chevy truck
Except for ign and headlights, ren everything else to the terminal SW (I
think)
on the headlight switch. This way if you ever have a short, shutting
off the main lighting switch will kill everything except headlights and
engine.
If you have a mechanical step on linkage like a CCKW, add another brake
light
switch to the starter linkage to short out the ignition resistor when
the starter
is engaged.
I just did this on my 4th WW2 HMV.
Steve AKA Dr Deuce
----- Original Message -----
From: "Colin M Rush" <chesnimnus@juno.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 2004 12:28 PM
Subject: [MV] 12-volt conversion questions
> For those that do not already know, I have the care of an IHC M-5H-6.
> After spending 4 days driving it around several weeks ago, we have
> decided that a 12-volt conversion is in order. 6-volt works great when
> it is first started, but after if gets hot and tight, it takes about 30
> to 40 tries before the engine cranks over enough to catch. We jumped it
> once or twice with a 12V battery, and it popped right off. When
> researching this for a 1941 Chev truck I was working on, I had asked
> around several years ago at a local shop called Willamette Electric that
> rebuilds generators and alternators and starters (they are now out of
> business, thank you NAFTA), and they had told me that the generators and
> starters were built heavy enough that they could withstand being used in
> a 12V system. We also will need to rewire it, since the old wiring has
> been cobbled up and is painted over with Navy surplus paint and all of
> the color codes are gone. Anyway, I would like to keep it looking
> original if possible. One thing that I am worried about is the voltage
> regulator. It is a large Delco unit, with a removeable aluminum can held
> on with two thumbscrews. Can that work with 12 volts? If not, is there
> another one that looks the same from a newer application that I can
> install? Again, I would like it to look 'right'. If not, I may just
> install one of the more typical 'black box' regulators like the passenger
> cars and trucks used up into the early 1970s, and put that inside the
> larger aluminum can of the old box. If anyone has any input on this, I
> would appreciate hearing it. Also, does anyone have any suggestions for
> a solid-state version of one of these that will work?
> Also, the same truck is a positive ground vehicle. I had heard
> that this was a bad thing on some newer aluminum-bodied vehicles, causing
> corrosion. Is this something I need to change, or should I just not
> worry about it?
> -Colin Rush
>
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