From: DBaumanjr@aol.com
Date: Sun Mar 12 2006 - 11:17:08 PST
The problem with braizing is that the braized area must be sand blasted to
remove the flux. If this step is skipped, the paint will get blisters underneath
that contain a white powdery substance. Been there....
Mig welding with a copper patch behind the hole is a great repair if the
surrounding metal isn't too thin. If it is, the metal burns away & you have a
larger hole to weld. Done this.....
Bondo works fairly well, if the front & back sides of the panel are coated
afterward. POR-15 works great for this application. If you decide not to coat
the backside too, moisture gets into the repair & results in more rust. Got the
T-shirt.....
Lead can be tough to work, requires soldering to tin the area first, there
always ends up being a lubricant of some type on the lead to keep the paddle
from sticking(which requires alot of cleaning), and you'll still need some type
of plastic filler to finish the project. Long story short, the lead holds up
well, if it sticks properly, the paint holds on, if you thoroughly clean the
area numerous times, you'll still need some bondo & keep your fingers crossed
that the paint stays on. I've seen it done with mixed results by an old time
bodyman. No T-shirt here for me.....
I've used the Mig welding repair on my M715 hood, and the Bondo(Duraglass)
repair on some M151a1 pinholes, braized numerous repairs back in the day.(even
replaced a 1/4 panel on my Monza by braizing)
Darryl Bauman Jr.
[OlolllllllllolO]
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1967 M715 w/winch
2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
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