From: m35products (m35prod@optonline.net)
Date: Fri Jun 04 2004 - 12:56:25 PDT
I admire your ingenuity. I have heard of folks making these dummy hubs
before, and I wonder if just taking a pair of stock drive flanges and
milling out the splines would be a bit easier?
On the other hand, considering the cost, tangible or intangible, of your
personal time, why not buy a pair of my lockouts, at the discount price of
$475? They eliminate the need to unbolt/bolt the dummy flanges when you are
ready to go 10-wheeling.
If you would like to try a pair, and decide not to use them, we offer a
money back deal. You pay shipping only.
Arthur P. Bloom, Pres.
www.M35products.com
Hubs, power steering, and other goodies for the M35
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Ternes" <racecadet@yahoo.com>
To: "Military Vehicles Mailing List" <mil-veh@mil-veh.org>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 1:56 PM
Subject: [MV] How to make your own lockouts for the M35 Rockwell 240 axle
> The following is a writeup of how to make your own
> dummy lockouts for the deuce axle. I've only used
> these on the front, but I see no issue in running
> these also in the rear.
>
> Materials:
> 2x 3" lengths of 3.5ID pipe (as I recall, it's 3" long
> of 3.5" pipe, but there is a chance that I used 3.5"
> of 3" ID, this is from memory, afterall!)
> 2x 7" squares of ~3/16" steel plate
>
>
> Tools needed:
> Metalwork tools
> · cutting torch
> · grinder
> · welder
> Steady drill or drill press and ¿1/2"? bits
> 1/2" Transfer punch
> One takeoff drive puck from front axle and bolts
> A centerpunch and compass would really help
>
>
> Procedure:
>
> Measure circle from inside of deuce wheel and cut two
> circles from plate to match this diameter. Once you've
> cut the circles out, discard the scraps from the steel
> plate.
>
> Align the drive puck as best as you can over one of
> the circles of steel, since you'll be copying the bolt
> pattern. Using the transfer punch, transfer one hole
> from the stock drive puck to the newly cut circle of
> plate. If you've used transfer punches before, you'll
> understand what you're doing here. :)
>
> Transfer punch one hole, and then drill the plate
> circle for that one hole. Stick a bolt through the
> bottom of the plate, up through the hole, and then up
> through the puck. Using this hole as a guide, then
> transfer punch the rest of the 8 holes and then drill
> those out.
>
> Now, cut out the center of the plate in preparation
> for the pipe. SAVE the small inner circle, since this
> will form the outside cap of your lockout.
>
> Note - you can either mark out the inner hole before
> or after you drill the holes - it's up to you. I'd
> also cut it after you drill, but again this is
> preference.
>
> So now you should have all the pieces ready for
> welding. Align carefully, and weld er up, tacking
> first and checking for concentricity and interference
> before final welding.
>
> Pic of the finished product:
> http://www.planetbantz.com/imghost/bob/deuce_lockout.jpg
>
> Yes, I know I am missing a lugnut. Remember - you can
> be up to 20% short and still be legal. :)
>
> I'd also paint, but I finished these at 1AM the night
> before I bought my deuce, so that was a luxury I
> didn't want to wait for (these will get toasty from
> welding).
>
>
> To install, I packed the sucker with grease and just
> stuck it on there. I used Gr8 hardware since I figured
> I'd bash this at some point, but that was totally
> optional. :)
>
> Heck, I probably forgot something, so if it's not
> clear, email me and I'll clarify.
>
> Cheers
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
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